I’ve spent the morning looking at online news sites from Australia, just to see what is making the news at home. It seems a tad tame to some of the news events here (I’ll cover that in another blog). However, one story that grabbed my attention was the ranking of Melbourne as the eighteenth most liveable city in the world (use to be number one). Actually, I read two articles about it. The first was definitely for the Sydney market, as it crowed about how Sydney slammed Melbourne in the rankings (and I was told Sydneysiders didn’t get into the Sydney-Melbourne rivalry). The other was for the Melbourne market, as it explained how good it was to be ranked eighteenth (with a small line appearing near the end of the article stating Sydney was ranked tenth). Mind you, I have been to a few cities ranked in the top five and I would not place them higher than Sydney or Melbourne. Hmmm
That’s when the notion of ‘what is the truth?’ can come into play. As people’s perceptions can vary greatly, we get presented with a ‘perceived truth’. For example, lots of people rave about Santorini; I do not. Even here in Guyana, I found some things people told me before I arrived were not what I found on the ground. It’s not that they were wrong. It’s their perceived truth. We have clearly been exposed to different things whilst here and, even when exposed to the same things, our interpretations vary, due to our backgrounds and life experiences. It’s this notion of ‘perceived truth’ that I want you to keep in mind while reading my impressions of Georgetown. Just as you would find yourself aligned yourself with either Margaret or David. (Note to non-Australians – they are a couple of iconic film critics.)
By the official population statistics, Georgetown is not that big, with only 250,000 people, although I suspect it would actually be higher. Even when you compare that to how busy the place is, you definitely get the feel of a centre much larger than it actually is. The shopping area around Regent Street from Bourda Market (where I sampled the fantastic fruits mentioned last time) right through to the Starbroek Market. Here you dodge people and stalls on the pavement, and play ‘Frogger’ to cross the roads (fortunately the traffic lights generally have the seconds counting down so you know when they will change – it helps a bit). Around the Starbroek Market, it is bedlam during the week, as it’s the major interchange for the mini-buses. Whole streets are filled with these buses as they ‘hustle’ to fill up with passengers (no timetables - when they are full, they go). These mini-buses are the major form of public transport as they travel to different parts of the city, as well as along the coast and inland. (Note – the photos I have included with this blog entry were taken on a Sunday, because I felt a bit safer taking my camera out on that day. This is why there are so few people.)
Despite its size and buzz, people are generally helpful. Taxi drivers will pounce on you but a quick, polite ‘no, thank you’ results in you being left alone. Sometimes people are even looking out for you. For example, I would walk down Main Street, where I would have some polite banter with the handicraft sellers. One day they saw a beggar approach me and shooed him away before he even had a chance. (Generally speaking, only the males get approached by beggars. The two new female volunteers were surprised when I said how often I had been approached. On some of the occasions, they had even been with me.) The moment I thought I was a goner was at Starbroek Market, when a guy threw something down in front of me and walk towards me in an aggressive manner. When he was right in front, he offered his hand and apologised for his behaviour (something in me just didn’t think this was really the case, mind you). As you move around, you most certainly are noticed. It’s kind of nice but a little bit spooky as well, especially when they can tell you different places they have seen you during the day. But, hey, I kind of stick out a bit.
Night time does present a few issues so most travel is done in a taxi. You start to form a bit of a relationship with a couple of companies. One of my greatest achievements thus far, has been to explain to a taxi company where I wanted to be picked up in one attempt. They are struggling with my accent a bit so I have to work on slowing down and speaking a bit clearer. I also need to learn more Creolese, fast!
There are definitely areas where you don’t go in Georgetown (some day as well as night). This has not stopped me from going out and enjoying the nightlife. Besides catching up with people at various social gathering (there seems to be quite a few of these), I’ve been to a film festival, play pool, hit a nightclub and a couple of bars (one called OMG – that’s Oh My Gosh because to say ‘God’ would be blasphemy, we were promptly told) but the highlight was definitely a jazz night at the Sidewalk Café. This has quickly developed into my favourite venue in town. Very cool jazz with a Brazilian influence. I could have listened to the singer’s smooth voice all night. Oh and by the way, the bar across from the Rima Guesthouse, where I was staying, closed down. Clearly the Karaoke was too loud!! (Or possibly bills not played – not sure which).
As a lot of meals were provided at the Guesthouse or at the VSO Office (from a Restaurant called the Claypot, which we were told does an amazing Ginger Beef – something lost on all us newies since we were all vegetarian), I haven’t really sampled a great deal of the food on offer elsewhere in Georgetown. That said, what was provided at VSO and Rima was sensational. I can’t believe the amount of food I have eaten (portions are large), yet my clothes are already starting to feel loose. Therefore, I think I am in food heaven!! I’ve been told of a range of places to try (which tend not to be open in the evening) so there will be plenty of eating out to be done when I get back to Georgetown. A couple of faves so far, are Steppers, a vegetarian Rastafarian place and the Oasis Café, the place to have an Italian-style coffee. Okay I am a little conflicted with Oasis. The first time I walked in I wondered what I was doing there as it was just like places at home. However, I have found myself there a few times to have a double espresso (no soy milk on the menu). It’s air conditioned and there is a free wifi connection. Conflict over!
The biggest surprise for me was the shopping in Georgetown. Just about everything you could want is there (so I didn’t have to bring that Teflon coated wok!). Not that I bought anything. I just scoured the supermarkets to see what they had and making mental notes of where I may find particular items (which I have since discovered was a handy thing to do). The store that amazed me the most was Giftland, which even had the kitchen sink jam-packed into three floors. However, I suggest avoiding the place on a Saturday afternoon, especially if it is hot. Just too busy! And fresh fruit and vegetables that taste like I remember as a child, can simply be purchased at one of the markets. The surprise here, though, is the price you see is the price you get. No haggling done here.
During the day, I did try to explore Georgetown as much as I could on foot. I explored the seawall (first sight of the sea here and I can see why you don’t swim at the beach in Georgetown – refer to the photos), a place where people lime (chill or loiter). I also checked out a couple of parks, National Park, where people play sport and do fitness things, and the Botanical Gardens.
‘Going for a walk!’ with accompanying hand motions was yelled out at me as I was walking along.
‘Yes I am!’ I replied. I had been told about the obvious statements. However, with the humidity I found I was a walking sweat machine. Not my most glamorous look. On a different occasion, that caused a group of girls to shout out the obvious ‘belly sweat…white man belly sweat’. Yep, I just put it down as one of those ‘just embrace it’ moments. I have truly embraced this city and in the words of Jane, another volunteer, ‘I LOVE it!’ That’s my perceived truth.
